Tuesday 08 November 2022

Designing with Natural Color Diamonds Part I: Color Theory

Designing with Natural Color Diamonds Part I: Color Theory

From the initial sketch to the final polish, fine jewelry design it’s often a collaborative, creative process relying on multiple artisans, each individual a master of their craft. One important step is finding a trusted partner to source the sparkling stones necessary to bring a vision to life.

Every jewelry designer’s dream is to work with the best materials and the most exceptional gems. The opportunity for creating exclusive, original pieces grows exponentially when you have access to natural color diamonds. 

At Langerman Diamonds, we are fortunate to participate in many designers’ creative processes, guiding them in their search for exceptional diamonds. Our collection houses fancy color diamonds with over 300 distinctive hues. This exciting variety can be daunting to navigate for those who haven’t designed with colored diamonds before.

Seeking to inspire creativity, we have prepared this two-part series on how to design with natural color diamonds.

In this first article, you’ll learn more about:

  • How to incorporate color diamonds into your collections

  • Color theory to create captivating combinations

  • Color diamonds and their meaning


Creating Meaningful Collections


Rose and white gold pendant set with a Fancy Blue Asscher cut diamond surrounded by a double Pink diamond halo

With the renewed interest in birthstones and other customization trends, being able to present pieces with meaningful interpretations has taken a more significant role in a collection’s potential for success. Natural color diamonds not only elevate designs with an additional degree of rarity, but their captivating shades also offer endless combinations to channel a particular mood, evoke an emotion, or honor a private memory.

Natural color diamond eternity bands 

Take Notes From The Color Wheel

An excellent approach for incorporating fancy color diamonds into your designs is to follow cues from the color wheel. A trusted tool for artists and designers alike, the color wheel allows for a clear overview of the color spectrum and illustrates the relationship between each hue.  

The Color Wheel.

Source: Wikimedia Commons

Color theory is an extensive topic, but, most commonly, yellow, red, and blue are considered the three Primary Colors. In this model, orange, violet, and green are Secondary colors, and Tertiary colors are those between a Primary and a Secondary hue.


Complementary colors are those that sit opposite to each other on the wheel, such as orange and blue. Selecting complementary fancy color diamonds results in unexpected, alluring combinations.

Fancy Orange and Blue Diamonds are an example of a complementary palette 

Fancy Pink and Lime Green diamonds are a very attractive complementary pairing 

Jonquille and Lavender diamonds are also a complementary combination



This term refers to a selection of hues next to each other. Designs incorporating an analogous palette often feel harmonious and natural.


Yellow, Green, and Blue diamonds represent an analogous color combination. 

Violet, Pink, and Red is another analogous combination represented here by Lavender, Pink, and Raspberry Pink diamonds.


A subtle color scheme with varying saturations is described as monochromatic. Combining color diamonds with different levels of intensity will create an ombré effect.

Fancy Green diamonds of different saturation degrees

Natural Brown diamonds are perfect for versatile and elegant designs. From left to right: Toffee, Chocolate, and Champagne diamonds.

Three Lavender diamonds of varying levels of intensity 


Consider Symbolism

Each color vibrates at a particular frequency, stimulating different reactions and emotions. Social and cultural norms also influence how we feel about certain shades. You can use colors as a storytelling tool to express the inspiration behind a collection.

Warm Tones

Warmer colors with a yellow undertone are usually associated with joy, cheerfulness, or friendliness. In almost every culture, yellow symbolizes the Sun, embodying a positive force.

Valued for their dynamic, energetic feel, warm colors can be fun and passionate.

Canary Yellow Radiant Cut Diamond


Pumpkin Round Brilliant Diamond

Cognac Modified Square Brilliant Diamond

Cool Tones

Blue undertones are the common trait of cool tones. Overall, they are known for their soothing properties. Holding a strong association with nature, cool colors are found in a clear sky, a pristine lake, and a quiet forest. They transmit lower temperatures which give us a sense of calm and relaxation.

Cool colors are also interpreted as graceful and elegant.

Fancy Blue diamond with a grayish tone.

Natural Lilac diamond showing hints of pink.

Natural Turquoise pear cut diamond with an icy, pale color that would shine in a white gold setting.


Consider Other Elements

Gold Alloys

The color of the metal used already sets a mood.

Setting warm-toned diamonds in yellow gold, for example, feels smooth and effortless as the richness of the metal strengthens the color of the diamond. Yellow diamonds look particularly vibrant when set in this gold alloy. The caramel and honey notes on Chocolate diamonds are also accentuated by yellow gold.

This stunning engagement ring in 18k yellow gold is set with a 3.01 ct Old Rose cushion cut diamond.


Following the same principle, Pink diamonds look fabulous when set in rose gold. This alloy also compliments Champagne diamonds, Cognacs and those with an orangy or reddish undertone.

Natural Lime princess cut diamond ring in white gold 

White gold’s coolness makes vivid colors pop and highlights the stones by creating a greater contrast.

The deeper, more saturated the color of the diamond, the more you can play with the gold tone to create different moods based on contrast or balance.

Other Gemstones

Natural color diamonds can also serve as luxurious accents. Incorporate colorful side stones for your rings or select melees for pavé creations.

Yellow gold ring with a white marquise cut diamond center stone set in an embellished band with a pavé of Canary Yellow Diamonds.

Contact us, and our team will guide you in the process of sourcing natural color diamonds for your jewelry designs.