Friday 08 July 2022

4 C’s Fast Track: Diamond Cuts

4 C’s Fast Track: Diamond Cuts

The Round Brilliant cut is the most recognizable and in-demand diamond shape, especially for engagement rings. As the name suggests, this cut is the most sparkling because it was designed to reflect the most amount of light possible. A strong scintillation is a sought-after feature in white or colorless diamonds, but what should you be looking for in a natural color diamond? Is a round cut the best option? Read on to find out.

In this blog, we’ll cover:

  • What is actually a Brilliant Cut?

  • Why is Cut so important in natural color diamonds?

  • What are fancy diamond shapes?

  • Tips on selecting the best diamond cut for your design.

This article is the second in our series “4 C’s Fast Track”, where we go through each of diamond’s 4 C’s: Color, Clarity, Cut, and Carats. 

Click here to read Part 1: Diamond Carats. [insert link]


What Is A Brilliant Cut?


Langerman Bespoke Ring in 18kt Yellow Gold With Three Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds.

The Round Brilliant Cut was conceived in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky and hasn’t changed much since. It was developed to maximize light return and, simply put, defined the ideal proportions and number of facets to increase brilliance and produce the most sparkle  in white diamonds. 

The term ‘brilliant’ refers to a diamond-cut following such guidelines, so round shapes are not the only ones that fall under this category. Many other cuts, such as a Marquise, Oval, Pear, and some Square and Rectangular shapes, can also bear the ‘brilliant’ designation. For example, when looking at a lab report on a Cushion cut diamond, it will probably be described as a “Cushion Brilliant” or “Cushion Modified Brilliant.”

Fancy Yellow Brilliant Cut Diamonds.


3.16 ct Natural Chocolate Cushion Cut Diamond.


Unveiling Colors: Why Cutting And Polishing Is Crucial

The main two goals when cutting a rough white or colorless diamond are maximizing brilliance and minimizing weight loss. But size and sparkles are not necessarily what you should be focusing on when looking into buying a natural color diamond.

Cutting and polishing a Fancy Color diamond has a different approach. Brilliance, clarity, and reducing loss of weight are still imperative. But the most important target is preserving and intensifying the diamond’s natural color. 

Polishing Of A Natural Color Diamond.

This shift of priorities means we don’t choose what shape we want to cut. In a way, the rough diamond lets us know. At Langerman, decades of examining, cutting, and polishing natural color diamonds allow us to quickly determine the best shape to cut a rough stone upon inspection.

Learn more about The Art of Diamond Cutting


Fancy Colors With Fancy Shapes

Fancy color diamonds can display their hues better when cut in Fancy shapes, or non round cuts.  Let’s explore the most common Fancy diamond shapes.

The Princess Cut

Also known as the Square cut, the Princess is the second most popular diamond shape. It’s easy to identify and tell apart from other squared cuts as the Princess has sharp corners.

0.38 ct Rectangular Princess Cut Olive Diamond.

0.15 ct Princess Cut Chocolate Diamond From The Argyle Mine.


Step Cuts

Some squared and rectangular shapes don’t follow the ‘brilliant’ canon. Diamond cuts like the Emerald and the Asscher fall under the category of Step Cuts. 

3.01 ct Emerald Cut Bronze Diamond.

A Step Cut is mainly made up of rectangular facets that are cut parallel to the girdle of the diamond. Shapes in this family will exhibit less brilliance, but their larger table and facets allow for a clear view of the diamond’s color.


Asscher Cut Champagne Diamond Stud Earrings.


Radiant Cuts

Radiants are a fairly modern shape. They were developed in the 1970s in an attempt to combine the high light reflection of the Brilliant facets with the cut cornered outline of the Step Cuts. The result lives up to its name.


0.23 ct Radiant Cut Raspberry Pink Argyle Diamond.


0.43 ct Radiant Cut Lilac Diamond.


Marquise Cut

It is believed this romantic shape was designed under the request of King Louis XV to create a diamond that resembled her mistress’s lips, the Marquise de Pompadour.

0.60 ct Marquise Cut Fancy Orange Diamond.

Various ratios are possible to achieve with this elegant, pointy shape. The Marquise cut can be slim, plump, or anything in between.

0.78 ct Marquise Cut Olive Diamond.


Oval Cut

As well as the Marquise, the Oval cut has a flattering effect when used in engagement rings. Thanks to their elongated form, both cuts prolong the finger and give it a slimmer appearance. Ovals also tend to appear larger than their actual carat weight.

Oval Natural Yellow Diamond Halo Engagement Ring.


Pear Shape

This teardrop shape is a combination of the Marquise and the Oval. 


0.52 ct Pear Cut Natural Indigo Blue Diamond.

Proportions of the Pear shape also vary. You will find stones with a more pronounced, sharp point than others and changing levels of roundness and softness on the oval side. 


0.18 ct Pear Shape Natural Fancy Lavender Diamond.


Heart Shape

This shape requires high precision to achieve perfect symmetry. It’s a stunning choice for an engagement ring, a sweet pendant necklace, or a feminine pair of stud earrings.


Fancy Blue Heart-Shaped Diamond.


Unusual Diamond Shapes

The cuts mentioned above are the most commonly found Fancy shapes, but they are not the only ones. Some incredible cuts allow natural colors to be displayed in exceptional, creative ways. At Langerman Diamonds, you will encounter sleek Shield cuts and rare Half-Moons, among many other spectacular shapes. 


0.87 ct Shield Cut Natural Pink Argyle Diamond.


How To Select A Diamond Shape

There are many factors to consider when selecting a diamond. Its cut will dictate possible setting options and the overall feel of a design. Square or rectangular forms like the Asscher or Emerald have a classic, timeless feel. Geometric shapes with pointy corners like the Trillion, Shield, or Kite cuts instantly make a design look edgy and contemporary.

0.41 ct Kite Step Cut Cognac Diamond.


Combine multiple diamonds and play shifting setting orientations. Incorporate varying cuts to create an interesting layout. Fancy shapes will give you the creative freedom to come up with unique designs.

At Langerman Diamonds, we will be happy to assist you in the process of creating your own bespoke jewel or sourcing the rarest color diamonds for your projects.