Friday 04 November 2022

Diamond Shapes: The Pear Cut

Diamond Shapes: The Pear Cut

An asymmetrical diamond cut famous for its teardrop shape, the Pear cut combines the roundness of the Oval and the pointy end of a Marquise.

The Pear shape is a Fancy Brilliant cut. In the context of diamond shapes, ‘Fancy’ is an umbrella term describing all diamond cuts other than the Round. A ‘Brilliant’ cut is a diamond cut polished to achieve high brilliance. They feature triangular and kite-shaped facets.

Despite its chic, contemporary allure, the Pear cut was introduced in the late 1400s. Developed by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem, the original Pear had 58 facets. But after five hundred years, diamond cutters have earned some creative license, and modern pear-shaped diamonds can sport 56 to 58 facets. 

Read on to learn more about this unique shape:

  • The Pros and Cons of Pear-Shaped Diamonds

  • What to Look For In a Pear Cut

  • The Best Settings For a Pear-Cut Diamond


Qualities of The Pear Shape


Anatomy of the Pear Cut

Source: GIA


Like other Fancy shapes, the Pear doesn’t follow a standard set of proportions. With so many variables, pear-shaped stones can look very different from one another giving each stone a personality of its own.

With a length-to-width ratio of 1.74, this 0.18 ct Pear-Shaped Lavender diamond looks long and slim


Depending on the unique characteristics of the head, shoulders, wings, and belly, Pear diamonds can look rounded, pointy, bulgy, or slender. There is no official consensus on which ratio or set of attributes is ideal. 


This 0.22 ct Intense Pink Pear Cut diamond has a softer, more rounded shape due to its 1.27 ratio and broad shoulders.


For the same reason, GIA does not provide a Cut Grade for Fancy cuts. Yet, Polish and Symmetry are described in all GIA lab reports. 

Another distinctive feature of the teardrop shape is the bowtie effect. Also present in the Marquise and Oval cuts, the bowtie is a natural pattern made of two symmetrical triangles that meet towards the center. Although not considered a defect on its own, of a bow tie is too large and dark it may become more noticeable making the diamond less attractive.

Examples of two Pear-Shaped diamonds with very apparent, dark bowties extending across the width of each stone. Source: GIA


Pear Cut Diamonds: Pros and Cons

Elongated shapes like the Pear are favorites for engagement rings as they tend to appear larger than their actual carat weight. The tip point of the Pear makes it a very flattering center stone. 

From celebrities to fashion icons, the Pear cut is universally loved. 

Victoria Beckham is famous for her engagement ring collection, which is rumored to continue to grow with every wedding anniversary. One of the most impressive rings seen on her, it’s a 15 to 17 carat pear cut diamond set in a platinum pavé band. 

Actress Margot Robbie, rapper Cardi B, and tennis player Anna Kournikova share the same taste in engagement rings. Their bands vary in style, but one feature connects them: the center pear cut diamond.

But the most famous pear-shaped engagement ring of all time has to be the one Elizabeth Taylor received from Richard Burton. The lavish 69.42-carat pear-shaped diamond was later adjusted to be worn as a necklace.

Some argue that the same feature makes Pear diamonds prone to get stuck in fabrics, especially when wearing long sleeves or knitwear. For this, we offer a simple solution: always put on your jewelry last, and take it off first.

Another critique often mentioned in blogs is how difficult it is to find well-cut Pears. With so much creative room to cut Pear shapes, wings can look bulgy, the head could be too flat, and many other’ less aesthetic’ features can be found. However, this is all subjective. Your idea of a perfect Pear might be one with soft wings; for others, flatter wings creating a sharper point could better fit their concept of beauty.


The Best Settings For a Pear-Cut Diamond

Often a concern for Marquise and Pears is their sharp tips. Whereas it’s true they could increase the risk of damage in the event of a hard blow, jewelers are well aware of this, and Pear-shaped diamonds are often set with special care and attention to protect the tip. 

Here are some creative settings for Pear-shaped diamonds from our bespoke archives.

3.00 ct Intense Orange Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring


This exquisite, V-shaped, tapered ring features an Intense Orange Pear cut diamond. You will notice the tip is well guarded by the embellished band.

Fancy Black Pear Cut Diamond in a Tension Setting Engagement Ring


A Black Pear cut diamond is held in a modern tension setting for this alternative engagement ring in rose gold, offering plenty of protection to the tip.

Yellow Pear Cut Diamond in a Multi-Row Pink Diamond Pavé Setting


A delicate, multi-row pavé setting made of Pink diamonds hugs the exceptional 5.24 carat Fancy Yellow Pear cut diamond in this colorful rose gold ring. 

Orange Pear-Shaped Diamond in a Bezel Set, White Gold Ring


Bezel settings conform to any diamond shape and have a thin metal rim that folds over the stone and holds it secure. This type of setting offers extra protection against impact.

Ultimately, the risk of accidentally dropping your jewelry is universal and not restricted to Pear shapes. Nonetheless, damage in diamonds is very uncommon as they are the hardest mineral. Check out our Summer Care Guide, where you will find general care and storing tips.


What to Look For In a Pear Diamond

Look for good symmetry and polish, as they are integral for brilliance. 

Remember, ratios and proportions are a matter of personal taste. There is no right or wrong. The best diamond is the one that you find remarkable.

For Fancy Color diamonds, the specific hue and level of intensity are always more important than any other feature. Color is the driving value factor.

At Langerman Diamonds, we have an outstanding inventory of Natural Color Pear Cut diamonds waiting to be added to your collection.